Munich Observations Part 3

Alright folks, we’ve sorted out what to drink and the limitations of Helles, Munich’s undisputed favourite. So, what’s next? Well, the obvious question: where do you actually drink it?

Now, in some German cities it can be a bit of a hunt. In places like Augsburg or Frankfurt, decent spots are few and far between, and in others – Lubeck, Wiesbaden and plenty more – the good drinking spots feel tucked away, almost like a secret. But Munich? Totally different story. Here, beer is front and centre. You’ll find bars, pubs, beer halls and gardens pretty much wherever you turn.

On our recent trip, naturally, we tried a few old favourites, though we started in a bar near our hotel. Near the main rail station, but on the nicer Northern side of it, which is a bit of a tip too.  Here you can find decent mid-price hotels in a safe area and still walk to the main areas of Munich in 15-20 minutes.

First up has to be somewhere that sells Augustiner, and we of course plumped for the Augustiner Grossgaststätte, a traditional beer hall with a small courtyard beer garden - which I've never set foot in but have looked at - right in the middle of Munich's Marienplatz pedestrian zone. Here a first surprise. The name has changed, and it is now the Augustiner Stammhaus, but otherwise the same inside - a vast cavernous place, which when filled is very jolly and, even when not, great for people watching. So:

Beer Halls

Generally run by the big breweries in Munich and for indoor drinking and eating (though just drinking is very common.) When busy they have a unique atmosphere - noisy and boisterous - and when quiet, brilliant for people watching. Table service, which will often be surly or indifferent when busy, but try a bit of German when it is quiet and things will likely change.  There will usually be tables outside, depending on venue.  Inside you will usually find more Germans drinking, and as sharing tables is the norm, you'll usually find someone to chat to, sometimes in English, but as always a little German is appreciated. The best of them?  You can't go wrong with the Stammhaus, Augustiner Brauhaus, Löwenbräu Keller, Paulaner Brauhaus, and my own favourite, the Weisses Brauhaus,  and of course, the Hofbräuhaus.

The Hofbräuhaus needs a special mention. This vast hall on more than one level and an outside area is legendary. Yes, the Nazis held rallies there, but they did in many of Munich's beer halls - it is just that most where they did, either don't exist and more, or are no longer beer halls. Here on my last visit and every one before, beer was always only available in litres, but no doubt, moving with the times, half litres are now sold. My visit this time was a tad spoiled by chronic short measure and where I found out that the beer is automatically dispense to the servers by a machine in predetermined measures. A traditional band in Bavarian attire plays continuously in theory, churning out drinking tunes, but they often seem to prefer to just sit and chat unless, of course, you cross their palm with silver.

This is a place where gawping Japanese (and other) tourists will wander in one door and out of the other, just to see the place and take photos. They won't buy anything. Food is hearty, but slow in coming. At busy times, you'll pay up front for both food and drink. Drink the dunkel here. It is rather good and the atmosphere unique.

Bars, Pubs and Restaurants 

Of course, Munich has pubs or bars. In the suburbs they are plentiful, but even in the city centre, or just a few streets away, are decent pubs, as you'd expect mainly to serve the local population. Don't expect much difference in the beery offerings, though, as the Munich big six dominate.  A top tip though to find something more exotic is local restaurants. It is usually fine to sit outside and just have a drink, but be conscious of how busy it is if not eating. Often you'll find beers from breweries outwith Munich, but you mustn't expect too much different in terms of style. A choice of beers from Greater Bavaria, albeit helles or weissbier does make a change though, and usually the people watching is slightly different too.

In the centre you are well served by pubs from Tegernsee, Ayinger and plenty from the Big Six. Just find one you like the look of.

Beer Gardens 

Drinking in Munich in summer when the weather is fine usually attracts you to a beer garden. These are plentiful, vary from massive like the Augustiner Keller to some cosier ones such as Seehaus, by a lake in the Englischer Garten.  When it comes to beer gardens I'd really recommend that you use one or more of the many internet guides as you can then decide if it is what you have in mind.  While they are certainly variations on a theme, all have their charms whether it be atmosphere, music, clientele or whatever, but do go.

My own favourites are probably the Augustiner Keller and perhaps oddly, the Biergarten am Chinesischen Turm, which is not so touristy as you'd think and has a fab atmosphere.  Do look up beer garden etiquette before you go to avoid confusion though.  There is no fee to go in, you find your own table - sharing is the norm -  fetch your own beer having gone through the turnstiles ( unless there is a tablecloth when it is waiter service) and pay the cashier as you leave the turnstile area.  Cash is preferred, but cards are much more normal now.  Food is always available and you select your own and pay on the way out of the serving area.  You can bring your own food, but not drinks, which will be from just one brewery. And you may have to pay a deposit on your glass, which can be a bit confusing to redeem. Just watch the Germans and do what they do and you'll get the hang of it.

So there you have it.   Munich is an easy-going beer drinking city.  You will find Germans having a drink with breakfast, lunch and dinner. They will watch the world go by with a cold half litre bottle bought from a shop - that's fine if you want to. There are hidden gem beer gardens and stalls and kiosks in public parks, as well as massive beer halls and more. If the weather is fine, drink the occasion and even if the beer is a bit samey, relax and take in the scene, remembering, if you can, that the beer is just an accompaniment to your enjoyment!

One thing to note is the German people generally are very pleasant and usually happy to pass the time of day with you. A bit of  German helps, but they love to practice their English.

Munich is very walkable and flat, but public transport, while not exactly cheap, is plentiful.  

If you are wondering what to do if you are in Munich in winter or when it is pissing wet, both of which I have experienced, just hunker down inside. You'll be fine. Better than fine.  Pubs, beer halls and restaurants will be rammed and a lot of fun.

A Bitter Lesson in Birmingham

While many members of the Campaign for Real Ale were sceptical about moving the Great British Beer Festival (GBBF) from its London home to the NEC in Birmingham, it is doubtful if many of us were prepared for how badly it would turn out.  A whopping £320,000 loss was surely not in anyone's mind, and must have exceeded by far the worst case scenario presented in the business case for it.

As someone who has worked at countless Great British Beer Festivals and organised or jointly organised the National Winter Ales Festival and latterly for a number of years, the Manchester Beer and Cider Festival - a large event in a very beery city - the thing that haunts you most is "Will anyone turn up and if they do, will they come in enough numbers to at least break even?"  You spend countless hours beforehand trying to size and scale the event to appeal to as many visitors as possible, and to offer them an attractive event that will make that, not only possible, but likely enough to write it all down in a proper business case and then convince the Campaign's Festival Scrutineers that it can be done.  In our case, and I'm sure at the NEC, organisers are getting hourly door counts to see how things are going. Firstly you need to pay the rent and if numbers look good, it is likely that the other main expense - beer - will take care of itself.  The relief when you see the numbers adding up is palpable.

I can only imagine the GBBF organiser's horror as door numbers were absorbed and the realisation that it wasn't going to be a success, and actually reaching the dreadful conclusion that the main question to consider was "How bad is it going to be?"  It is likely that realisation at the organising end of things, was an early one and that in the meantime, the show must go on. That must have been hard and I truly feel for them.

The Campaign, to its credit, did not try and hide the true horror of the loss and while it is easy to be wise after the event, the NEC did not appeal to many old hands for many fairly obvious reasons. It wasn't in a big city centre. The area wasn't that attractive and transport links would likely mean that casual visitors were unlikely and there would be no or little after work crew dropping in.  Above all, the NEC isn't an attractive building like Olympia, or indeed Manchester Central.  However, a business case must have been made, and it is hoped that this was on merit as it is tempting to some to think that holding this flagship event after cancellation the year before, was a now or never decision.  

So, what next for CAMRA?  The GBBF in its two forms (The winter event which was the National Winter Ales is now GBBF Winter) will now not take place, and likely will never take place again.  There will be a huge tightening of belts.  Writing to members Ash Corbett-Collins the National Chairman wrote:

• The Great British Beer Festival and its Winter counterpart did not attract enough visitors to cover the cost of holding them, resulting in a substantial loss.
• Our membership figures – like many other organisations – are simply not growing. The hard truth is we are unlikely to return to pre-2020 levels.
• Our festivals are getting more expensive to hold, with fewer affordable venues.
• The cost of running a membership organisation and business is also increasing. 

Ash finished as follows:

"While I hoped I would never need to send this message, my number one priority is seeing our Campaign survive and thrive. Our 50 plus year history must be protected and I am determined to see CAMRA continue for the next 50 years.

Doing nothing is not an option. If we do not act now, the stark reality is we will not exist in the future." 

CAMRA though, is not alone in this existential threat. All voluntary organisations are suffering the same effect. Younger people have other priorities nowadays. Either way, it does suggest that big CAMRA beer festivals will slowly die out as members get too decrepit for the physical effort. Demographics do tell the story here, and actually as folks get older, maybe targeting retirees than hopefully pursuing younger members is a better way of doing things, but this would inevitably change what we do - and in fact this is happening already.  Some festivals have been cancelled as there just aren't enough able volunteers

As I wrote on Seeing the Lizard's blog, Birmingham was CAMRA's Ardennes Offensive* - a last tilt and throw of the dice for GBBF, and while not as devastating, it will hasten an inevitable retreat. Though a collapse of the Campaign is unlikely - assuming it can overcome the loss - it will likely presage an emphasis on local campaigning and indeed, socialising, which is still an attractive part of the Campaign. (The national picture isn't always a main concern locally anyway.)  While us old gits are still alive we'll carry on and there will still be a bit of national lobbying while super complainant status is still with us. After that? Who knows, but it is hardly a bright picture overall.

In the meantime, as long as real ale - cask conditioned beer exists - there is a case to promote and protect it.  That presently, at least, means CAMRA, but the reputational damage is immense and the shock to the finances a heavy blow. I support Ash in steadying the ship, but he is correct to highlight the writing on the wall. 

 * The German's final large scale attack to ward off the inevitable defeat in the West during World War 2.

I also know that the cost of hiring venues, large and small is getting beyond CAMRA's means in many cases. Beer festivals are more difficult than ever, generally.

 

Boddies Going Down a Storm

Since my last post on the subject, I have been reading on social media that the new JW Lees version of Boddies is meeting with much approval from the cask drinking public and, importantly, from publicans.

It is of course still largely in its Manchester homeland, and probably not straying too far even in the North West, but it will I’m sure in time.  I note that such fine establishments such as the Fox and Pine in Oldham - CAMRA's Greater Manchester Pub of the Year say it is flying out and in Stockport, the newly re-opened Crown run by the same team as the award-winning Petersgate Tap, is shifting the stuff at a rate of knots, selling their three casks in 24 hours.  Of course, at the moment there is a large novelty factor at play, but speaking to folks in my local Lees pubs, who have been quizzing me about it, it is clear that it has definitely piqued interest locally, not least of all from the Mayor of Greater Manchester, Andy Burnham and the Japanese Ambassador Hiroshi Suzuki. 

Boddingtons
Cream of Manchester
“By’eck, it’s gorgeous”!!! pic.twitter.com/ozBFF0cGd9

— Hiroshi Suzuki (@AmbJapanUK) September 5, 2025

The reputation of the beer will be enhanced to travellers, too, as it is being sold by the Piccadilly Tap and the Victoria Tap, at the city's main railway stations. Maybe passengers, nipping in for a pint will spread the word?  

There has been a bit of  minor grumbling about whether the beer is true to the original, but of course, the question to pose when that arises, is "Which original version?" as it is clear that Boddingtons Bitter changed many times over the years, though nobody can say with any certainty when the halcyon version was, or when it changed from that.  Beer memories are fickle and subjective, so it is better surely to take this view as expounded by Boak and Bailey, which I regard as entirely sensible.

"A perfect historical recreation might work as a one-off special, which people would seek out once, as a novelty. But this needs to be a beer that will sell in 2025. That it reminds people of how it felt to drink the original* is good news in that regard. (*As someone pointed out in that social media discussion, there is no ‘original’. In reality, the beer changed and evolved over the course of decades.")

I will be keeping my eye on it from my perspective as CAMRA's JW Lees Brewery Liaison Officer of course - as well as from my own interest - and will report back from time to time.  In the meantime, it has given a bit of a buzz to the cask ale market and that, for sure, is a good thing.

I am told that Boddies is also available in JW Lees Rain Bar, but this isn't verified and there are other places in the city too, so plenty of chances to try it should you be so inclined.

Munich Observations Part Two

You’ve already had the lowdown on some of the beers we enjoyed in Munich, but man – and indeed woman – does not live by Helles alone (though in Munich you certainly could have a decent attempt). As I mentioned before, E took quite a shine to Augustiner Pils. Alas her attempts to sample a few different pils along the way were thwarted. Sadly, you can’t find Pils on draught anywhere, and for reasons best known only to themselves, Spaten insist on offering the dreadful Beck’s as their bottled pils in their most prestigious outlets. It appears Spaten Pils, which I recall was a lovely beer, is no longer brewed. A real shame.  In fact, Spaten it seems, only brew Helles in both normal and alcohol-free forms and, of course, an Oktoberfest. 

It gets worse. The whole shooting match of Spaten-Franziskaner-Löwenbräu-Gruppe is owned by AB InBev, who presumably have streamlined the brands available, though under the Franziskaner brand you'll also find weissbier and a kellerbier.  Like Spaten, the rather delightful Löwenbräu  Pils has been dropped. It is a pretty grim picture as the odd hoppy pils provided an alternative to Helles, which in its Munich iteration, can be a little sweet, and dare I say, bland? (The locals call it “süffig”, meaning “easy to drink”. And, in fairness, it is.

Less common, but sitting just above pils in strength, you'll find Augustiner Edelstoff, a delicious export style or "spezial" beer. Tegernsee also produce one, though this is harder to find. Expect around 5.6%. 

So what other beers can you find in Munich? Well, aside from helles, the most common is weizen – wheat beer – also known as hefe-weizen or weissbier. It’s a hugely popular summer refresher, and unlike pils, every major Munich brewery makes one.  Such is its popularity that wheat beer is almost always available on draught, not just in the big beer gardens but in most pubs and bars around the city. Bottled versions are everywhere too, though in busier places you’ll usually be served beer from the tap, unless you specifically ask for a bottle. The standard pour is half a litre, and I enjoyed quite a few of them in my week in Munich.

The differences between the big Munich brands are subtle, with one notable exception: Schneider. They’re specialists in wheat beer and produce a broad range of excellent and distinctive brews. Interestingly, they haven’t brewed in Munich since 1943, when in a losing encounter with the Royal Air Force, their brewery was destroyed. These days, production continues in Kelheim, where the wheat beer tradition is still going strong. More of this in Part 3.

 Dunkel bier varies between light and dark brown and is malt accented. It seems a minority taste these days, though I do recommend the Hofbräu version which is fuller bodied, darker and tastier than most. You'll also find the noted strong beers in bottle in most of the bigger places - and at very reasonable prices too. But beware, these are usually over 8% abv and should be sipped cautiously, not necked.  Well known examples are Paulaner Salvator, Augustiner Maximator, Hacker-Pschorr Animator, Hofbräu Maibock and Augustiner Heller Bock, sometimes depending on time of year. If you really want to go for it, March sees a number of "Starkbierfests" where you can certainly fill your boots..

Finally, it is worth mentioning that many of the breweries sell beer from a wooden cask, but you have to seek it out. This is sold without extraneous CO2, in wooden barrels filled from the conditioning tank in the brewery. Look out for signs saying "vom Holzfass" or sometimes "bier vom Bayrische Anstich".  Often this is only at a particular time or day, but see below.

Augustiner, Hacker-Pschorr,  Ayinger and even Paulaner offer beer from wooden barrels here and there, but the only place you'll find Edelstoff sold in this manner is the Augustiner Keller, more of which in part 3 where I recommend a few decent places to drink the stuff. 

It would be remiss not to mention Oktoberfest beers, made available from late August until they all consumed after Oktoberfest ends. I just missed out this time, but here at least you can usually buy them in the UK from specialist online suppliers to try for yourself. This is the optimum time to do so.

By 'eck. It's Back!

A veritable glitterati of CAMRA North West worthies, plus the Morning Advertiser were gathered by invitation in JW Lees Brewery Cottage yesterday to learn about JW Lees newly brewed version of Boddingtons Cask Bitter and, importantly, to taste the product.

William Lees-Jones, the Managing Director, led proceedings with a canter through the history of the brand and how AB InBev, trading as Budweiser UK came to the agreement for Lees to revive the cask version of the brand which has been in abeyance for fourteen years, since it was last brewed for what was then InBev by fellow Manchester brewers Hydes.  (Boddingtons at 3.4% is still brewed for keg and can at Salmesbury).It was actually interesting to learn that historically, despite its national distribution, 46% of Boddingtons production was sold in or around its North West homeland.  It was also to me, at least, quite astonishing to learn that at its peak well over 300,000 barrels were produced.  

The new beer will be pitched between premium and superpremium segment of the market following market research, with the byline "Cream of Manchester back on cask." It was a humorous and interesting talk before William handed over to the Brewing Director Michael Lees-Jones, who would get down to the nitty-gritty of the product. In the background, the brewing team were busily filling pints in new branded glasses while Michael described the beer as the assembled crowd eyed them thirstily.The beer is brewed with JW Lees house yeast, as the risk of cross contamination was considered too large to use a Boddington derived yeast. Originally Boddingtons was hopped with Fuggles, Goldings and Whitbread Goldings Variety, but the new beer is hopped with Goldings and Jester to give the flavour profile that is now required. This will impart a touch of grapefruit bitterness.  The beer has 15.5 colour units and 29 European Bitterness Units. The original gravity is 1038, with an abv of 4%.

Pints were then handed out as Michael talked us through the taste. Foremost, this is a decently bitter beer, with the trademark creamy head and yes, the classic Boddingtons dry finish is there. This is a very good beer indeed, and many of the veteran CAMRA crew spoke approvingly of how close it was to their memory of the original.  A question and answer session followed with more pints of course, and an excellent spread of food appeared while we all mingled and discussed.

So, where can you get this beer? Firstly, it won't be sold in any Lees pubs with the exception of Founders Hall, Lees showcase pub in Manchester City Centre.  Lees's free trade reps are busily signing up North West outlets to the cause and eventually, it will go out to carefully selected distributors throughout the nation.  JW Lees also intends to have us all back in a few months to tell us how it is going. In the meantime, there will be a What's App group for feedback.

So, there you have it. Boddies is back and it is very good. Seek it out and see what you think. 

This is a very quick post as I have to go out, but I thought it worthwhile to give the basic gen about this iconic beer.  Photo of William and Michel Lees-Jones and the beer and glass.

On the way out we also were given a gift box with a glass, a  bucket hat and a very yellow T shirt. Fab or what?