Rammed

We returned to London for the first time this year last Thursday afternoon. We should have been there earlier the week before, but we had overlooked the revamping of signals and track at Manchester Piccadilly, resulting in its effective closure and trains starting at Stockport. Bugger that, so we came a bit later, but as always after checking the flat, sorting out mail and whatnot, off we set for our usual first night venues. We are nothing if not creatures of habit, so first stop - the Aldgate Tap. We know the manager and the owner - both Johns - the latter of whom E had oddly bumped into the previous day in the Oxford Road Tap where she partook of refreshment before Priscilla Queen of the Desert. 

Alas, it was not to be. Thursday is the new Friday for office workers in post Covid London, and despite the large outdoor drinking area (which we always avoid anyway due to smokers), the inside was bedlam. It isn't that big and with a long queue - yes a queue - at the very small bar and every inch of space taken, we decided to abandon ship. It wouldn't have been pleasant, though no doubt it was very remunerative for the various Johns.

Plan B. Just across the road is the Three Tuns. This is a nice little boozer, with from experience, a very friendly landlady and a pretty acceptable pint of Harvey's Best. My main complaint about the place is that the seating is completely of the poseur table variety, which with high stools is uncomfortable at the best of times and more so when busy. But we needn't have worried. Outside was a merry throng of office worker types and a peer through the window rewarded us with a sea of backs and no visibility of the bar whatever.  Another hasty retreat was beaten.

What now? Well, one of the most attractive pubs in the area was just a few moments away. Craft Beer Co St Mary Axe is more or less under the Gherkin and internally a very appealing pub. Large windows, exposed brickwork, some lovely breweriana including both mirrors and enamels, the sort of lighting that just makes you want to stay. A good customer mix and decent mixed seating all help make for an attractive visit. What can possibly go wrong?  Well, try the usually odd selection of cask beers at your peril. They are in my experience, invariably from breweries that could do with taking a serious objective look at their offerings and served poorly at top dollar. So why go at all?  The ambience is just fine, and they do have London Black, albeit at a price.

The pub as always in London had quite a few standing outside, but there was a bit of room inside. We squeezed onto a table by invitation and I nipped to the bar for a London Black and a half of German pilsner for E. I then returned the bar to correct severe overcharging which I hadn't noticed at the time. As an aside, the cashless move often means a card machine being quickly thrust under your nose in a busy pub, in a way that means you often can't readily see what the charge is. The other side of the coin is it shows up instantly on my banking app, so my £15 charge for a pint and a half resulted in a £3.50 refund. Still about the priciest drinks of the weekend I believe.

Does that tale end there? Alas, no.  My nitro poured London Black looked suitably Guinness like at first, but within minutes, the head had all but disappeared, leaving a flat black liquid with a thin scum of head.  The gas was clearly in need of a fresh bottle or the regulator needed re-calibrating, but my heart wasn't in another complaint, so I endured, and we left as soon as we could. No amount of visual and sensory appeal can overcome poor beer. 

Now one poor pint in a three pub visit isn't a good outcome, so we went back towards our flat to the pub I mentioned in my last (long ago) blog. Ye Three Lords was busy with a decent crowd, and again we were invited to share a booth. The London unfriendliness myth was being shattered and while I still didn't trust the cask, Budweiser Budvar was very tasty and provided suitable refreshment in a very pleasant and comfortable atmosphere, which when you boil it down, is the name of the game.

So, what do I conclude?  Beer in London is still variable in quality. Some pubs are better than others - much like anywhere - and Londoners aren't that miserable, a theme that was repeated and confirmed throughout the weekend. Prices are ouchy and Thursday is indeed the new Friday.  With that settled we scuttled off for our usual first night in London Pizza Union evening meal.

I remarked to E while in Cask and looking at the Dryborough's mirror on the wall, that I'd bet the flat that I was the only one present that had ever drank Dryborough's beer. Hell, apart from E, probably the only one who's ever drunk Draught Bass, also represented on the brickwork. But I wouldn't have bet the flat on that!

Next up - yes there will be more, as London inspires me. Tales from Poshley aka Maida Vale coming soon.

You'll have to do without photos. I didn't take any. 

A Proper Pub Once More

Years ago, we used to visit a pub at the far end of the Minories, fairly near our flat.  And I mean years ago - probably fifteen or so since we last went in. Then the Three Lords was a Young's pub and I recall it being fairly traditional and selling cask beer. Over time though it was pulled apart inside and instead of a mixed clientele it became a place with a few posing tables and a mostly young after the office kind of vibe. It offered unbearable music, shoulder to shoulder standing drinkers braying at top volume, and became just the sort of place that we actively avoid. So we actively avoided it. For years and years. Though we passed it by many times, the Three Lords was dead to us. A few months ago we noticed it was closed and kind of assumed that after Covid office workers were thin on the ground and its time had passed.

Enter Will Hawkes, whose London Newsletter I subscribe to - and worthwhile it is too - who advised that the pub was undergoing renovation and would be leased (I think) to London Brewing Company. That sounded promising and a few weeks ago, we passed it, still closed but with evidence of being worked on. We kept an eye on it and I understand it opened a week or two ago, so last night we called in. I am glad to say we immediately liked it.

Now Ye Three Lords, the place is a pub again. Entry is through a kind of foyer and, depending on your point of view, it has rather subdued lighting or is a bit gloomy. To the right is a long bar festooned by many taps dispensing London Brewing's keg offerings and others. In the middle is a set of wickets with, on this visit, four cask beers on offer.  On the left are sets of comfortable banquette type seating set to face each other, with some room dividers nicely breaking up the space.  Walls are painted black, dark grey or dark blue. In the circumstances, it was hard to tell.  Ceiling lights and bar lights are fabulous and look as though they cost a bob or two. The bar back sports spirits and is mirrored and looks good.  The pub was warm on a cold evening, and the staff - obviously new - easily outnumbered the customers. We counted six behind the bar at one point. With a boss hovering about and two chefs in the kitchen, more customers are certainly needed to make that equation add up, but let's assume this was for training purposes.  It is early days.

As I surveyed the beers, I was offered tasters.   Naturally, I tried the "best" bitter first, which wasn't to my taste at all. Slightly spicy with woody Fuggles dominating, it was, shall we say, typically Southern in profile.  I had a taste of the Ruby Mild and settled for a pint. At 3.4% it was fine, but no more. Clean with berry notes, but unremarkable. Without tasting, I ordered a pint of 100 Oysters a 4.6% stout which was, seemingly, Champion Beer of London in 2023. It was pretty black and like the mild, clean, which I like, but was undistinguished. Even with better conditioning and a tight sparkler, I doubt if its game could be raised much higher. Its champion status may well tell you more about the competition than the beer itself.

In summary, the cask beers were clean, but hardly raised the spirits. This was just ordinary. They lacked that peak of conditioning that sets things apart, but frankly you'll never do great things from these beers. They do sell Budvar, which E had, so who knows, that may have to be my tipple there and maybe the keg stuff is worthwhile? We shall see.  The tables all had menus and beer and price lists on them. A big tick there. All prices, including the beers were clearly listed, and I'd say were fair for the area.* 

I think there was no more than six or seven customers in and lacked atmosphere, but clearly on a busier night, it may have felt better. I’m told the downstairs area is rather swanky, but we didn't go there or to the toilets, so no comment on those.   

So, will we come back again? Yes. Overall, we liked it. It was comfortable, we enjoyed the background music which had actual words in it, the layout, the bar and the lovely lights. Was the welcome warm? Initially yes, but the person who served me hadn't passed his warmth on to his many colleagues, but, as I said, early days. 

To give you an idea of prices, a half of Budvar and a pint of beer - same price for both - was £8.55. To compare, a pint of Mallinsons Bitter and a half of Bitburger in the nearby Aldgate Tap was £7.80. Both were way better in the latter.

We noted the bar in Fullers Chamberlain Hotel, more or less opposite was rammed. Usually dead when we go.

Location, Location, Location

Last week, on a visit to London, we decided to walk over Tower Bridge to the Hand and Marigold in Bermonsdsey, and hence along Tooley Street to the Sun Wharf, a new Wetherspoons, in the former London Dungeon.  In October the tourist hordes have died down somewhat and our walk along Royal Mint St to the rear of the controversial sometime to be Chinese embassy, was an enjoyable one as we checked out yet another high-rise building being squeezed into the smallest of spaces.  On the bridge, gratifyingly, we didn't have to dodge photo taking visitors quite so much.  We noted a foreign, but unidentified warship, moored to HMS Belfast and the ever-changing skyline, before walking along Tower Bridge Rd and its nose to tail city bound traffic.

I have mentioned the Hand and Marigold favourably before and, on this Thursday, late afternoon, it was very quiet.  The friendly barman was line cleaning and mentioned he'd have rather a good porter on soon. Fine by me. In the meantime, a very decent pint of Lacon's Norfolk Gem was no hardship. I liked the taster I had of an Abbeydale beer a lot less and disagreed mildly with mine host about its distinct but denied whiff of vinegar, but all was redeemed by the aforementioned porter, Abyss from Other World Brewing, which hails from near Edinburgh it seems. This was an absolute belter of a beer. Highly recommended, as is the pub.

Moving on along Tooley Street, the Shipwright's Arms may be located in a bustling and increasingly refined area, but it still maintains more than a touch of its working-class roots. 

Inside, the atmosphere is lively, with a mix of commuters and local characters - geezers if you will - mingling around the large circular bar. The traditional woodwork and tiled shipbuilding murals add to the appeal of this classic pub. Outside, in that peculiar London way, we noted drinkers spilling out onto the streets, opting to stand and drink on the pavement rather than squeeze into the packed indoor seating.  The whole thing, inside and out, was going like a fair. It was good to see.

Of course, into each life a little rain must fall. There were three cask beers. Doom Bar and its stablemate Sea Fury along with Southwark Brewing's London Pale Ale which I had (in an abomination of a Sharp's branded glass) and found thin, weedy, and pretty flat. This was a shame, but this pub is better than its beer choice and was enjoyable despite it.

And so to our destination. Just past London Bridge Station which is in itself a railway wonder of the world and sharing its arches, is JDW's newest London pub - well probably - the Sun Wharf.  Inside this is a maze of separate areas which are served by one large and long bar. You could easily get lost inside, though, so packed it was. Exploring was rather difficult, and I'm pretty sure given there was more than one entrance, that I must have missed bits of it.  Service was good, though, and I noted that a couple of staff seemed to have been allocated solely to bring glasses back for washing and to clear and wipe tables. Given the throng inside, they were needed. I had an excellent pint of Buckingham Best, which of course had gone off when I returned for another.

There is little doubt that the Sun Wharf will succeed. It is in a prime position, has more passing trade than you could shake a stick at, and is reasonably priced. It is almost like a giant station bar. I'll still spend more time in the Hand and Marigold though.

Given the traffic, we walked back to Tandleman Towers South, thus missing out on the chance to use our bus passes. I still couldn't identify the unknown warship, given the darkness and the distance.

Unwisely, we called into the Goodman's Field as we passed. That was a bad idea, but overall, albeit by a majority, London cask passed muster.

I have had no end of trouble formatting photos in Blogger recently. It used to be easy, and now it just isn't if you want them to wrap. Apologies.

Pretty Good Stuff

Now I have known to bang on about poor cask beer in London and sometimes I get told off for it. Can you believe that? Well I'm usually right on that subject, but it isn't just that the beer is badly kept in London, but that some of it, honestly, isn't that good.  It is only fair then, to fess up when I come across good London micro brewed cask beer.  Step up to the plate please Five Points Brewery of Hackney, London.

In the excellent Blackjack Taphouse - or is it the Smithfield Market Tavern? - I had my first pint of Five Points Pale. What a great beer. Trust me on this one. It has an easy drinking elegance, is bitter and hoppy without going over the top and above all keeps the body that you need to hold beer together.  Served at the peak of cask conditioning and through a tight sparkler, it was so good I had to have two more.  The true test of a good beer is surely that one pint isn't enough? Now I haven't, to my best recollection, come across this beer in London, but I will look out for it. I just hope I don't find it warm, flat and wishy washy.  I reckon too that it illustrates a point I have often made before, that the best new wave breweries do cask as well as keg and bottle.  When you get your cask beer spot on, you really are a brewer. There is no place to hide when you produce real ale. Well done on that front and shame on those that produced great cask and then gave it up.

I should point out too that I recall Matt Curtis mentioning the brewery, so I looked up the article. It was his cask beer of 2015.  Well done that man.  I can see where he is coming from.


Tonight, having shaken off my lurgy, more or less, I'm going to try some of the new version of a beer I brewed and had a big hand in the recipe, Rammy Craft's Chocolate Chilli Stout. The chilli has been upped. Hooray!