We recently undertook a bit of a rail tour of what was titled five capitals. I suppose if you include the brief stop in Brussels it was. I've already mentioned the cafe in Brussels in a previous post, but while that was just fine, it was a very short visit and all the more welcome because of my beer free week that preceded it.
So, let's start with Cologne. Not a capital obviously, so a bit of an outlier, though also somewhere I know reasonably well. We had the usual central visits to the Koelsch houses in the central area we stayed in. We included Peters, Sion and Fruh in the whistle stop tour. On a Monday night though, all were pretty quiet.
But the real joy was wandering around Eigelsteintorburg—a tip courtesy of the hotel desk. Set against a floodlit ancient city gate, it was packed with lively eateries - no shortage of customers on a balmy Monday night - and a brilliant atmosphere in the mid twenties heat. So good in fact that we ate there both nights.
Top tip: As above. I'm sure there was good beer around there if you looked for it.
But it was the splendid Päffgen we enjoyed most the next day. After a morning walking over various Rhine bridges, it was a decent walk in 29C heat. I thought I'd been there before, but I clearly hadn't. A central schwemme with rooms off led to a tree filled beer garden which was half in and half out of the open air. The beer was as good as Koelsch gets - which I know isn't saying much. Next to us, a table of gents, freshly made redundant from ABN Ambro were drowning their sorrows on the company's time including cheeky shots. They pulled us into the chatter, proving once again that chance pub encounters make the best days out. 
Next up: Berlin. After a fair bit of sightseeing, we went off-piste and stumbled across a Hacker-Pschorr Wirtshaus near the Humboldt quarter. Fronted by a deliciously no-nonsense barmaid who’s clearly seen it all, she managed the bustling crowd with a sort of gruff, reassuring affection. We hit the jackpot just as they tapped a wooden cask (vom Holzfass) right on the counter. Hacher Pschorr Gold was al ovely drop, but as ever, the real draw was the people-watching. Double-fronted entrances, a brilliant mixed crowd, and cheery staff—cracking spot.
Top tip: Hackescher Markt is also well worth a shout for decent-priced Munich beers and a good feed.
Onwards and Prague. Lots of great beery places and beer. The odd stand out to me was the food hall we entered thinking it was the main market. It wasn't - that was about a mile away, but as we explored the upper floor with its pizzas,, kebabs and more, we spotted a bar selling Dreher on tank and Pilsner Urquell on keg which we chose. Sponsored (or maybe owned by Time Out), again people watching was the order of the day and we enjoyed the experience before making our way to the actual market.
We also, on a hot and fairly sticky day, took the tram to check out a bar that Boak and Bailey enjoyed. Pult was easy to find and pretty empty when we rolled up. B and B has the details, but we were greeted warmly by (possibly) the landlady. Being nowhere near as methodical and forensic as B and B we simply found a clear lager style for E and a pale ale for me which were enjoyable. We enjoyed it too and had another before going for a posh meal across the road. My own impressions were of an easy going place with good prices and as it got busier, a nice buzz. The customers in our case were mostly young women which was kind of unusual in Prague. If hunger hadn't called, we would have stayed on a bit. I can see why B&B liked it though.
Our next journey took as to the rather compact, but very fetching capital of the Slovak Republic - Bratislava. The weather had by now turned a tad chillier, but outside people watching was still doable. Plenty of choice too though boringly we just picked the best spots to be nosey, but generally, decent beer in the form of Pilsner Urquell was common enough. The only craft bar we went in at night was rather good though. Be Unorthodox Craft Beer Bar offers a good atmosphere and flights of five or nine with a lot of choice. We also liked Meštiansky Pivovar, for very decent beer and a genuine Slovak experience. That though, was a daytime visit.
Top Tip: Beerwise follow Otto. A walk across the river and back is also rewarding
Finally, Budapest—and what a big bugger it is. Staying by the Opera House put us right in the thick of it. One evening strolling towards Parliament, we stumbled into Trabant Presszó, a brilliant East German-themed dive complete with sawn-in-half Trabant cars and barbed wire on the walls. Replicating an East German 80s working-class pub? Maybe a bit, but then again I've never been and never will do sadly - unless a time machine becomes available. Great fun for a quick pint, though.
We also tackled a couple of famous Ruin Bars. Pricey, but worthwhile. At one, the dour bartender—fronting a surprisingly Anglo-German tap list—instantly lit up when I handed him a couple of CAMRA mats, proudly promising them a prime spot on his collection wall. The ultimate bonus? Stumbling upon a tiny local joint serving Hofbräu Traunstein Pils on draught. Pure gold. That pils on tap is pretty rare.
Top tip. Get the bus tour. Though pricey, the two day ticket includes a full hour river cruise and is just much easier.
An honourable mention should also go to Otto's Beer Rambles who can be relied on to point out the unusual. Frankly though, you can't really go wrong in Prague beerwise, but while we used it sparingly, the more dedicated beer hunter will find all they need from Otto who has poked into every beery corner of the places he visits.
This trip was arranged on out behalf by a travel company, but you could easily save a few bob and do it yourself,though booking your own trains and hotels might be a pain.
Top tip - pick hotels near the stations or good transport links, but really that applies everywhere.
I didn't include a link to Otto as his security certificate is flagged as out of date, but on my phone it was safe enough.
