Krieking at the edges
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Co. Mayo's Belgian-style brewery, Mescan, has added a new fruit beer to the
range. *Kriek Silín* is, I think, overstating the case with the K-word: I
put a...
3 hours ago
Tandleman's Random and Particular Thoughts on Beer.
Despite having been to Brussels quite a few times, I've never been to Cantillon, mostly because E hadn't fancied going. She doesn't like sour beer. This time we are with others who are well up for it, so off we go. We arrive reasonably early when there is just a handful of people inside the brewery which looks pretty damn unassuming from the outside. Inside we pay a modest €7, have our nationalities noted in a ledger and are given an informative leaflet and a family member takes the three of us (the rest arrive later) round the lower reaches of the brewery. Now I have read elsewhere that is is fusty, dusty and cobwebby, which I have always doubted. It isn't. It is spotless as any brewery should be, but just rather old, dimly lit and made largely of wood. It is intensely atmospheric.
After that we are left to wander around. We look at the cool ship, empty and gleaming. This is key to the whole business and where the wild yeasts do their stuff. I remember my second intelligent question and ask it when I have the chance "Does the fermentation vary by much in its quality and taste?" Surprisingly it is very consistent I'm told. These wild yeasts seemingly know what is expected of them. We wander round, following directional signs, looking at huge oak casks and return to the bar and shop. Our €7 entitles us to two samples of around 15cl. First up is a cask 18 month old (young) lambic which is flat as a witch's tit with quite a few jaggy edges. E hates it, so I have two. It needs more age and frankly I prefer gueze anyway for its more refined character. The shop, by now boosted by quite an influx of new customers, is going like a fair. I reckon it makes more money than the €7 admission. The prices for the beer are very fair but I didn't intend to lug bottles back, so passed, which I kind of regret now. Our main group arrives and swells the shop's coffers further - well the clothing part of it. I'd always wanted a Cantillon T shirt, but in my size they only have two types of brown and green in stock. E, not so subtly puts me off both. Apparently neither would suit me. I must go back and get one sometime.
I was in Belgium at the weekend. Brussels to be precise. Belgium is a nice place with nice Belgian people. They speak better French in Brussels than the French do - well more slowly at least - so you can actually make out the words that one vaguely recollects from that Higher Exam paper (I got a B) around forty five years ago. They also appreciate you conversing in French which is more than the French do. They don't tut at your linguistic attempts. Nor do they charge you around €10 for 25cl of brassoesque beer in an empty cafe that is empty because nobody in their right mind will pay their prices. The Belgians au contraire brew jolly nice beer at very reasonable prices in bustling pubs and bars. I like Belgium and I like the Belgians. (Actually in truth I quite like France - it's just the French I have a down on, probably caused by the two weeks of non stop rain I had cycling there many years ago and being grotesquely overcharged by a rugby playing bar owner on my last and most recent visit.)
Like my good friend Jeff, I've been busy lately, hence the silence. I'm off to London in a few minutes, but I just thought I'd let you know that Oldham Beer Festival was a success and the Mayor will make lots of money for his charities. I met him too and a nice fella he is. I also got my photo in the Oldham Chronicle (not for the first time) and was complimented several times on my beer quality. That's all good.
The list is awesome, featuring some of the best and most progressive breweries in the UK. Fancy any Arbor? We have it. Hardknott? You betcha. Redemption? "Certainly Sir." "Blackjack Madam? Of course." "A pint? Just as you wish." Something beginning with "P"? "Easy peasy. We have Pictish, Portobello and Privateer." "What about local breweries? Well we have the fantastic Wilson Potter Brewing a special ruby beer to celebrate CAMRA Rochdale, Oldham and Bury's 40th Anniversary or Seven Brothers, Tickety Brew, Track and Millstone." New breweries? Yep. What about Martland Mill from Wigan? or Revolutions from West Yorkshire?" "What? You just fancy a pint of John Willies? Of course. The new seasonal will be on and we have the Champion Winter Strong Ale, Moonraker on cask."
Around our hotel clustered another fine bunch of pubs. We liked all of them to varying degrees with a special mention going to the Crafty Crow - modern and studenty, but not grungey - the Roebuck which showed off how Wetherspoons can make the most of a building and perhaps most stunning of all, the Malt Cross, a former Victorian Music Hall with a high arched roof, a gallery and lots of wrought iron. On a Saturday night it was busy with youngsters on their way to a club (judging by the skimpiness of their attire). It had a great atmosphere and friendly staff, but the beer could have been better looked after. Too warm and not well enough conditioned, it was served without a sparkler, but crashed into the glass to create a head. Minus points for that.
Near the Conference Hall was another fine clutch of pubs. The Hand and Heart impressed with a great range of well kept local beers (we avoided those on a stillage) and excellent service, the Ropewalk didn't impress though, showing the tatty side of student drinking. The wonderfully named Sir John Borlaise Warren had excellent beer, lovely cheese rolls and the kind of barmaid that truly enhanced the drinking experience by great charm and a wonderful knowledge of the names given to bread rolls in different parts of the country (cobs in Nottingham don't you know). The Falcon and Blue Monkey both also gave great pleasure, but the Blue Monkey had that bad habit of removing the sparkler to (allegedly) speed up service. This was one of the few pubs that didn't really give that warm a welcome, but the Blue Monkey Brewery Beer was very good indeed. We finished off on Sunday by repeating our visit to Fellows, Morton and Clayton and that was Nottingham done. The pubs had put on a great show.
Now I have known of Charlie for many years and was in fact given a book of his by a good American friend of mine as long ago as 1999. That book, Tap Into The Art and Science of Brewing is my technical bible. I know from industry sources and my friend (Jaime Jurado, Director of Brewing Operations at Abita Brewing Co and formerly a brewer at Truman's in Brick Lane, London) that Charlie is one of the leading experts in CO2 in beer and in what bubbles do and don't do. He knows his stuff. I rarely if ever get too involved in any technical debates in my blog or elsewhere, as you tend to be a hostage to fortune in such things and I sometimes at least don't feel secure enough to go into technical matter too deeply, but if I do, I check out the "bible" before doing so. You can imagine then I was delighted to have the chance to hear Charlie speak.
Well that was a more interesting weekend than I thought. The recent CAMRA Members Weekend was much more far reaching than I predicted it might be, with a decided nod to the future and a much more forward look for CAMRA's involvement in the beer world.
@NottinghamCAMRA @CAMRA_AGM @CAMRA_Official I'd set it to 11C personally. Still I'll see on Friday.
— Tandleman (@tandleman) April 15, 2015
Mind you, I didn't get off to the best of starts on Wednesday when I managed to offend the Cellar Manager of the AGM Beerex on Twitter with what I thought was a fairly innocent remark, but with a bit of turning the other cheek, I think I'll survive. Back to the main event, I'll be looking to speak on one or two motions, particularly the following:
The good old Morning Advertiser has this piece here which explains that following an HMRC ruling about "yields" per barrel, they have increased prices to landlords, thus turning a reduction after the recent beer duty cut into a price increase. Hey Presto!
The beer chosen was a Chocolate Chilli Stout. On the side I'm a bit of a stout fiend. The only other brew that I've had a recipe hand in was with Allgates of Wigan and that was a stout too - and a bloody successful one that has been brewed more than once. I see a pattern emerging. Now one thing I always think that stout should be is black. That means, to me at least, that it should have roast barley in it. I know you can piss about in other ways to replicate the colour without the "burnt" flavour, but then to me it isn't really a stout. I know in purist or historical terms that's not so, but if you want me to brew a stout, it will be between four and five percent, be black as the ace of spades and it will have a resinous hoppy finish and be a bit dry.
Baladin is a very pleasant craft beer bar and we assembled in its main room and bar. Those already there were in a hugely complicated round - I wouldn't have fancied picking the bones out of it at the end - but we three stuck together to sample the wares. Two were on handpump though I doubt if they are exactly cask conditioned as we know it. A somewhat ordinary but suppable stout and a somewhat ordinary and less suppable brown. We also tried between us Brune, Nina and Nelson and none really impressed. It wasn't a good start, but we liked the place, the company and the staff were really good and helpful. So not all bad.
Marston’s buys Daniel Thwaites brewing division operation:Marston’s has reached agreement with Daniel Thwaites to acquire the
trading operations of Thwaites’ beer division. The acquisition includes two
leading, premium brands: Wainwright and Lancaster Bomber ales. The total cash
consideration is £25.1 million excluding working capital. Marston’s has been
brewing Thwaites’ beers since early 2014. As part of this acquisition, it has
entered into a long-term exclusive agreement to supply all beer, wine, spirits
and minerals to Thwaites’ pub estate. Thwaites’ beer division is a high quality
sales business of scale concentrated in the North West of England, including a
150-strong team of regional sales, marketing and distribution staff operating
in the Independent Free Trade, National On Trade and National Off Trade
channels. The business has shown good growth in recent years, including the
acquisition of Hydes Brewery’s free trade business in 2012, which increased
Thwaites’ business in Manchester. Thwaites’ two principal beer brands are
Wainwright, one of the most popular golden cask ales in the UK and Lancaster
Bomber, a premium ale. Both brands have won numerous awards in recent years and
are highly complementary to Marston’s market-leading portfolio of premium craft
and bottled ales. This acquisition is consistent with Marston’s brewing
strategy to focus on popular premium ales with local and regional appeal, and
provides an opportunity to capitalise on the developing free trade market and
wider consumer interest in the beer category. The transaction is expected to
complete on 17 April 2015. In the 12 months to December 2014 Ebitda is
estimated to have been around £7 million before overheads of approximately £2
million. The acquisition is expected to be earnings-enhancing in the first full
year of ownership; in the current financial year it is estimated that the
contribution to profit before taxation will be around £1.5 million. Ralph
Findlay, chief executive of Marston’s, said: “I am delighted to welcome our new
colleagues to Marston’s. We are acquiring a very high quality business with
good people and brands, and with growth potential. The acquisition is
consistent with our beer business strategy to focus on local provenance and
premium brands, and provides opportunity to capitalise on the developing free
trade market and increasing consumer interest in the beer category.”
However, oddly, it seems that all is not lost brewing wise. According to the Wolverhampton Express and Star (Thwaites beers are largely brewed in Wolverhampton by Banks') "Thwaites has retained ownership of craft beer brands and
other cask ale brands, including its seasonal ale range, which it will continue
to brew and sell in its’ own properties. Daniel Thwaites’ chief executive Richard Bailey said: “This
is a very exciting development which allows us to focus on our pubs, inns and
hotels, whilst retaining a small brewery to continue to supply our own
properties with our fantastic beers and opening up a wider drinks range to our
customers through a long term supply deal with Marston’s.
The local CAMRA Branch I chair and have done for twenty years, is forty this month. We have been celebrating this with a series of 


