Location, Location, Location

Last week, on a visit to London, we decided to walk over Tower Bridge to the Hand and Marigold in Bermonsdsey, and hence along Tooley Street to the Sun Wharf, a new Wetherspoons, in the former London Dungeon.  In October the tourist hordes have died down somewhat and our walk along Royal Mint St to the rear of the controversial sometime to be Chinese embassy, was an enjoyable one as we checked out yet another high-rise building being squeezed into the smallest of spaces.  On the bridge, gratifyingly, we didn't have to dodge photo taking visitors quite so much.  We noted a foreign, but unidentified warship, moored to HMS Belfast and the ever-changing skyline, before walking along Tower Bridge Rd and its nose to tail city bound traffic.

I have mentioned the Hand and Marigold favourably before and, on this Thursday, late afternoon, it was very quiet.  The friendly barman was line cleaning and mentioned he'd have rather a good porter on soon. Fine by me. In the meantime, a very decent pint of Lacon's Norfolk Gem was no hardship. I liked the taster I had of an Abbeydale beer a lot less and disagreed mildly with mine host about its distinct but denied whiff of vinegar, but all was redeemed by the aforementioned porter, Abyss from Other World Brewing, which hails from near Edinburgh it seems. This was an absolute belter of a beer. Highly recommended, as is the pub.

Moving on along Tooley Street, the Shipwright's Arms may be located in a bustling and increasingly refined area, but it still maintains more than a touch of its working-class roots. 

Inside, the atmosphere is lively, with a mix of commuters and local characters - geezers if you will - mingling around the large circular bar. The traditional woodwork and tiled shipbuilding murals add to the appeal of this classic pub. Outside, in that peculiar London way, we noted drinkers spilling out onto the streets, opting to stand and drink on the pavement rather than squeeze into the packed indoor seating.  The whole thing, inside and out, was going like a fair. It was good to see.

Of course, into each life a little rain must fall. There were three cask beers. Doom Bar and its stablemate Sea Fury along with Southwark Brewing's London Pale Ale which I had (in an abomination of a Sharp's branded glass) and found thin, weedy, and pretty flat. This was a shame, but this pub is better than its beer choice and was enjoyable despite it.

And so to our destination. Just past London Bridge Station which is in itself a railway wonder of the world and sharing its arches, is JDW's newest London pub - well probably - the Sun Wharf.  Inside this is a maze of separate areas which are served by one large and long bar. You could easily get lost inside, though, so packed it was. Exploring was rather difficult, and I'm pretty sure given there was more than one entrance, that I must have missed bits of it.  Service was good, though, and I noted that a couple of staff seemed to have been allocated solely to bring glasses back for washing and to clear and wipe tables. Given the throng inside, they were needed. I had an excellent pint of Buckingham Best, which of course had gone off when I returned for another.

There is little doubt that the Sun Wharf will succeed. It is in a prime position, has more passing trade than you could shake a stick at, and is reasonably priced. It is almost like a giant station bar. I'll still spend more time in the Hand and Marigold though.

Given the traffic, we walked back to Tandleman Towers South, thus missing out on the chance to use our bus passes. I still couldn't identify the unknown warship, given the darkness and the distance.

Unwisely, we called into the Goodman's Field as we passed. That was a bad idea, but overall, albeit by a majority, London cask passed muster.

I have had no end of trouble formatting photos in Blogger recently. It used to be easy, and now it just isn't if you want them to wrap. Apologies.

Two Cheers for Licensing Review

There has been much coverage in the press - almost all of it sensational - in the past few days about the Government's proposals to review and modernise the laws which govern licensing.  The laws and rules have not been looked at in any great depth since the Licensing Act of 2003 which at the time was thought rather revolutionary and far-reaching, but is now seen as restrictive and over officious.

The new Labour Government set up a working group to look at how to reduce barriers in the licensing system and to examine and propose changes. It included UK Hospitality CEO Kate Nicholls, British Beer & Pub Association chair Nick Mackenzie and Night-Time Industries Association CEO Michael Kill.

The proposals are well laid out in the trade paper the Morning Advertiser which is linked.  Most seem sensible and non-controversial. My comments in italics:  

• A one-time (twentieth anniversary) licensing condition ‘amnesty’ to modernise and streamline licences

          Seems sensible 

• Hearings and appeals – various recommendations, including a strengthening of the objections procedure to prevent unnecessary and unsubstantiated objections

         About time. Too many objections are given too much weight in decision making 

• Remove the hard-copy local newspaper advertising requirement

          Clearly outdated and outrageously expensive to no real purpose 

• Improve the potential for licensed premises to better use their outside spaces by removing regulatory barriers, improving licensing decisions, simplifying processes, and achieving greater consistency

 Rather than protect outside space from unwarranted intrusion, this has been used as a stick with which to stop businesses using available space and for local authorities to exercise their  predilection for pettiness

• Increase the maximum entitlement for Temporary Event Notices (TENs) for licensed premises (that is those with existing premises licences) to help generate new opportunities for existing businesses. 

          Sensible. This applies to premises only, not to personal licences which have different conditions

• ‘Sunset clause’ on blanket hours and other policies to avoid situations where a restrictive policy is put in place to deal with a specific issue, but the policy in effect runs forever or is continually renewed using the original out of date evidence base 

          This is so obvious. What happened and was appropriate years ago is often automatically included for the future, despite circumstances changing

Other measures will include a review of licensing fees, extended blanket hours for specific local events, a review of the late-night levy and removal of early morning restriction orders.  

So far, so sensible. Reviewing legislation from time to time is only logical - laws need to evolve with the world they govern. Few could deny that pubs today are operating in a very different landscape to 2003, when the current Licensing Act became law. And that Act itself came after years of consultation in what already feels like another era.

What’s striking in this latest review is the number of gentle digs at Local Authorities and their often cautious stance on change. Naturally, that’s not what the headlines focused on. Even the BBC led with “longer opening hours” and the predictable link to anti-social behaviour. Meanwhile, pub owners across social media were quick to point out what’s really hurting the trade - and they’re right. Soaring inflation, rising wages, shifting consumer habits, higher taxes, sky-high utility costs, the cost-of-living crisis, and unfair competition from supermarkets all pile pressure on an already stretched industry — and that’s just the start of the list.

Still, the review itself is a step in the right direction. Although The Guardian focused wrongly on “Pubs to stay open until early hours in push for UK growth” -  those extra freedoms will help. But real progress would mean tackling the everyday issues that make both running and visiting pubs increasingly uneconomic.

When I say Local Authorities can be “cautious,” perhaps that’s being kind. At times, they can be obstructive, unhelpful, even tone-deaf  - though, to be fair, there are exceptions.

There isn't an end date for consultation, so don't expect to see things change immediately. 

 

Munich Observations Part 3

Alright folks, we’ve sorted out what to drink and the limitations of Helles, Munich’s undisputed favourite. So, what’s next? Well, the obvious question: where do you actually drink it?

Now, in some German cities it can be a bit of a hunt. In places like Augsburg or Frankfurt, decent spots are few and far between, and in others – Lubeck, Wiesbaden and plenty more – the good drinking spots feel tucked away, almost like a secret. But Munich? Totally different story. Here, beer is front and centre. You’ll find bars, pubs, beer halls and gardens pretty much wherever you turn.

On our recent trip, naturally, we tried a few old favourites, though we started in a bar near our hotel. Near the main rail station, but on the nicer Northern side of it, which is a bit of a tip too.  Here you can find decent mid-price hotels in a safe area and still walk to the main areas of Munich in 15-20 minutes.

First up has to be somewhere that sells Augustiner, and we of course plumped for the Augustiner Grossgaststätte, a traditional beer hall with a small courtyard beer garden - which I've never set foot in but have looked at - right in the middle of Munich's Marienplatz pedestrian zone. Here a first surprise. The name has changed, and it is now the Augustiner Stammhaus, but otherwise the same inside - a vast cavernous place, which when filled is very jolly and, even when not, great for people watching. So:

Beer Halls

Generally run by the big breweries in Munich and for indoor drinking and eating (though just drinking is very common.) When busy they have a unique atmosphere - noisy and boisterous - and when quiet, brilliant for people watching. Table service, which will often be surly or indifferent when busy, but try a bit of German when it is quiet and things will likely change.  There will usually be tables outside, depending on venue.  Inside you will usually find more Germans drinking, and as sharing tables is the norm, you'll usually find someone to chat to, sometimes in English, but as always a little German is appreciated. The best of them?  You can't go wrong with the Stammhaus, Augustiner Brauhaus, Löwenbräu Keller, Paulaner Brauhaus, and my own favourite, the Weisses Brauhaus,  and of course, the Hofbräuhaus.

The Hofbräuhaus needs a special mention. This vast hall on more than one level and an outside area is legendary. Yes, the Nazis held rallies there, but they did in many of Munich's beer halls - it is just that most where they did, either don't exist and more, or are no longer beer halls. Here on my last visit and every one before, beer was always only available in litres, but no doubt, moving with the times, half litres are now sold. My visit this time was a tad spoiled by chronic short measure and where I found out that the beer is automatically dispense to the servers by a machine in predetermined measures. A traditional band in Bavarian attire plays continuously in theory, churning out drinking tunes, but they often seem to prefer to just sit and chat unless, of course, you cross their palm with silver.

This is a place where gawping Japanese (and other) tourists will wander in one door and out of the other, just to see the place and take photos. They won't buy anything. Food is hearty, but slow in coming. At busy times, you'll pay up front for both food and drink. Drink the dunkel here. It is rather good and the atmosphere unique.

Bars, Pubs and Restaurants 

Of course, Munich has pubs or bars. In the suburbs they are plentiful, but even in the city centre, or just a few streets away, are decent pubs, as you'd expect mainly to serve the local population. Don't expect much difference in the beery offerings, though, as the Munich big six dominate.  A top tip though to find something more exotic is local restaurants. It is usually fine to sit outside and just have a drink, but be conscious of how busy it is if not eating. Often you'll find beers from breweries outwith Munich, but you mustn't expect too much different in terms of style. A choice of beers from Greater Bavaria, albeit helles or weissbier does make a change though, and usually the people watching is slightly different too.

In the centre you are well served by pubs from Tegernsee, Ayinger and plenty from the Big Six. Just find one you like the look of.

Beer Gardens 

Drinking in Munich in summer when the weather is fine usually attracts you to a beer garden. These are plentiful, vary from massive like the Augustiner Keller to some cosier ones such as Seehaus, by a lake in the Englischer Garten.  When it comes to beer gardens I'd really recommend that you use one or more of the many internet guides as you can then decide if it is what you have in mind.  While they are certainly variations on a theme, all have their charms whether it be atmosphere, music, clientele or whatever, but do go.

My own favourites are probably the Augustiner Keller and perhaps oddly, the Biergarten am Chinesischen Turm, which is not so touristy as you'd think and has a fab atmosphere.  Do look up beer garden etiquette before you go to avoid confusion though.  There is no fee to go in, you find your own table - sharing is the norm -  fetch your own beer having gone through the turnstiles ( unless there is a tablecloth when it is waiter service) and pay the cashier as you leave the turnstile area.  Cash is preferred, but cards are much more normal now.  Food is always available and you select your own and pay on the way out of the serving area.  You can bring your own food, but not drinks, which will be from just one brewery. And you may have to pay a deposit on your glass, which can be a bit confusing to redeem. Just watch the Germans and do what they do and you'll get the hang of it.

So there you have it.   Munich is an easy-going beer drinking city.  You will find Germans having a drink with breakfast, lunch and dinner. They will watch the world go by with a cold half litre bottle bought from a shop - that's fine if you want to. There are hidden gem beer gardens and stalls and kiosks in public parks, as well as massive beer halls and more. If the weather is fine, drink the occasion and even if the beer is a bit samey, relax and take in the scene, remembering, if you can, that the beer is just an accompaniment to your enjoyment!

One thing to note is the German people generally are very pleasant and usually happy to pass the time of day with you. A bit of  German helps, but they love to practice their English.

Munich is very walkable and flat, but public transport, while not exactly cheap, is plentiful.  

If you are wondering what to do if you are in Munich in winter or when it is pissing wet, both of which I have experienced, just hunker down inside. You'll be fine. Better than fine.  Pubs, beer halls and restaurants will be rammed and a lot of fun.

A Bitter Lesson in Birmingham

While many members of the Campaign for Real Ale were sceptical about moving the Great British Beer Festival (GBBF) from its London home to the NEC in Birmingham, it is doubtful if many of us were prepared for how badly it would turn out.  A whopping £320,000 loss was surely not in anyone's mind, and must have exceeded by far the worst case scenario presented in the business case for it.

As someone who has worked at countless Great British Beer Festivals and organised or jointly organised the National Winter Ales Festival and latterly for a number of years, the Manchester Beer and Cider Festival - a large event in a very beery city - the thing that haunts you most is "Will anyone turn up and if they do, will they come in enough numbers to at least break even?"  You spend countless hours beforehand trying to size and scale the event to appeal to as many visitors as possible, and to offer them an attractive event that will make that, not only possible, but likely enough to write it all down in a proper business case and then convince the Campaign's Festival Scrutineers that it can be done.  In our case, and I'm sure at the NEC, organisers are getting hourly door counts to see how things are going. Firstly you need to pay the rent and if numbers look good, it is likely that the other main expense - beer - will take care of itself.  The relief when you see the numbers adding up is palpable.

I can only imagine the GBBF organiser's horror as door numbers were absorbed and the realisation that it wasn't going to be a success, and actually reaching the dreadful conclusion that the main question to consider was "How bad is it going to be?"  It is likely that realisation at the organising end of things, was an early one and that in the meantime, the show must go on. That must have been hard and I truly feel for them.

The Campaign, to its credit, did not try and hide the true horror of the loss and while it is easy to be wise after the event, the NEC did not appeal to many old hands for many fairly obvious reasons. It wasn't in a big city centre. The area wasn't that attractive and transport links would likely mean that casual visitors were unlikely and there would be no or little after work crew dropping in.  Above all, the NEC isn't an attractive building like Olympia, or indeed Manchester Central.  However, a business case must have been made, and it is hoped that this was on merit as it is tempting to some to think that holding this flagship event after cancellation the year before, was a now or never decision.  

So, what next for CAMRA?  The GBBF in its two forms (The winter event which was the National Winter Ales is now GBBF Winter) will now not take place, and likely will never take place again.  There will be a huge tightening of belts.  Writing to members Ash Corbett-Collins the National Chairman wrote:

• The Great British Beer Festival and its Winter counterpart did not attract enough visitors to cover the cost of holding them, resulting in a substantial loss.
• Our membership figures – like many other organisations – are simply not growing. The hard truth is we are unlikely to return to pre-2020 levels.
• Our festivals are getting more expensive to hold, with fewer affordable venues.
• The cost of running a membership organisation and business is also increasing. 

Ash finished as follows:

"While I hoped I would never need to send this message, my number one priority is seeing our Campaign survive and thrive. Our 50 plus year history must be protected and I am determined to see CAMRA continue for the next 50 years.

Doing nothing is not an option. If we do not act now, the stark reality is we will not exist in the future." 

CAMRA though, is not alone in this existential threat. All voluntary organisations are suffering the same effect. Younger people have other priorities nowadays. Either way, it does suggest that big CAMRA beer festivals will slowly die out as members get too decrepit for the physical effort. Demographics do tell the story here, and actually as folks get older, maybe targeting retirees than hopefully pursuing younger members is a better way of doing things, but this would inevitably change what we do - and in fact this is happening already.  Some festivals have been cancelled as there just aren't enough able volunteers

As I wrote on Seeing the Lizard's blog, Birmingham was CAMRA's Ardennes Offensive* - a last tilt and throw of the dice for GBBF, and while not as devastating, it will hasten an inevitable retreat. Though a collapse of the Campaign is unlikely - assuming it can overcome the loss - it will likely presage an emphasis on local campaigning and indeed, socialising, which is still an attractive part of the Campaign. (The national picture isn't always a main concern locally anyway.)  While us old gits are still alive we'll carry on and there will still be a bit of national lobbying while super complainant status is still with us. After that? Who knows, but it is hardly a bright picture overall.

In the meantime, as long as real ale - cask conditioned beer exists - there is a case to promote and protect it.  That presently, at least, means CAMRA, but the reputational damage is immense and the shock to the finances a heavy blow. I support Ash in steadying the ship, but he is correct to highlight the writing on the wall. 

 * The German's final large scale attack to ward off the inevitable defeat in the West during World War 2.

I also know that the cost of hiring venues, large and small is getting beyond CAMRA's means in many cases. Beer festivals are more difficult than ever, generally.