Thursday, 25 January 2024

A Few London Observations

 I'm a bit of a creature of habit when I come to London. First night, check the flat is in one piece then off to the Aldgate Tap for a few pints, followed by a quick visit to get one of the few pizzas I ever eat at Pizza Union. Vesuvio of course.

Thus, it was on Tuesday. Flat in one piece - check. Aldgate Tap - check.  Now this is one of several taps, mostly near railways stations. In fact, we have two in Manchester and soon to be three, which is a bit of a secret, but I can make a guess as to location as I've been told it is a station. I know Jon, the owner, and he runs decent boozers at reasonable prices. I know the manager of the Aldgate Tap too, and he came over to have a chat and ask how the beer was.  Kelham Island Pale Rider was my choice of the two casks on offer, the other being Taylor's Golden Best. Both were under a fiver, and we spent a few minutes chatting about the pub, trade, and of course sparklers. All very pleasant, as was the pizza. 

The Aldate Tap is a peculiar building in Aldgate Square, all glass and metal, with a large outside area, which is fine, but draughty in winter with all the comings and goings. There is a good range of keg beers, and even Guinness, though my eyebrows were raised at the £7 a pint price. Better to have Rothaus Pils at £6.60 a pop in my view, but at least you can be sure the cask is in good nick.

Yesterday, in an effort to have a change, we walked to the National Portrait Gallery, which took just under an hour. My replaced knee took it in its stride - see what I did there -  and after a good look round  - highlight Rabbi Robert Burns and Mo Mowlem -  we decided on a local pint before heading to our destination in Gloucester Road for Lebanese scoff at Baba Ganouj which had been recommended.

 Now, Sam's Chandos is virtually opposite the National Portrait Gallery, but a quick look in revealed it to be virtually deserted, so in search of a better atmosphere, E suggested the Harp. And why not?  It was fairly quiet too, but even so, I have to mention that my cheery hello was ignored by the server, who was much more interested in his phone. Not something I appreciate, nor do I approve of the card machine being thrust under my nose without being told the price. The custodian of the bar seemed put out that I asked much it was, before turning the machine in a way I could read it. All wordlessly. He wasn't a lot better with customers, who on the way out thanked him. No response being his reply.

Maybe mine host had got out of the wrong side of bed or something, but it was an annoyance I could have lived without. Fortunately, my pint of Harvey's Best was on very decent form, which mollified me somewhat, and E expressed contentment with her Dark Star Hophead. But we didn't stay for another, despite the quality of the cask beer.  To spite him, I didn't take the glasses back either, as is my custom, but E did, insisting that we at least have standards. She's a good 'un.

And so to posh Kensington. The area around Gloucester Rd tube is rather agreeable. We spotted the restaurant, spotted a decent looking pub almost next door and with time to kill before our booking, decided on a stroll round before a pint. There is dosh in that area, and we enjoyed the to-ings and fro-ings, as posh parents picked up posh children from school and the general atmosphere of rich people about their business.  We walked a half mile or so, until a pub hove into view.  It looked fine, but the Greene King plumage didn't auger well. The Gloucester Arms is an imposing street corner pub. Inside was rather plain, but you could see in its day it would have been rather grand. Still decent now, with quite a few people in, though in fairness I didn't imagine them in the nearby mansions and mews houses, but perhaps I'm being unfair. The sole barmaid was pleasant and patient as we hummed and hawed, having dismissed the only cask beer, Greene King IPA. I chose Brixton Lager which was harmless enough, and we enjoyed a bit of people watching. The same barmaid smilingly thanked us when we brought our glasses back. See? Not that difficult, Harp.

The Stanhope Arms promised a selection of cask ales, but alas there was only Greene King IPA and maybe Abbott. I say that because the place was rammed and the bar hard to see. A very mixed crowd, with students, older couples, people coming straight from work and the like. It was very jolly and we enjoyed it. For me Portobello London Pilsner and for E who has a deep distrust of local lagers, Estrella, which I think comes from Bedford.   Two things of note. Firstly the tables, a mix of high and low, were so crammed together that any movement involved a convoluted exchange of "excuse me" and "sorry" as folks arrived and departed, or simply tried to go to the bar. The other thing was that in the hour we were there, not one pint of cask was sold. But we liked the place a lot, and that is not to be overlooked. The staff were cheerful and willing too.

After a fab Lebanese meal - you really ought to go there for the real thing and smiling cheerful welcomes and service - we headed home. Beer was out of the question as there was simply no room left, but we thought why not go to the Dog and Truck, which is probably our nearest pub, though equally it could be the Brown Bear or the Princess of Prussia.  Alas, our anticipated nightcap of a glass of verdejo was ruled out as the place was closed. Ruling out the Brown Bear (a bit rough for E) and the Princess of Prussia (bloody expensive), we headed to the excellent - why don't we go there more often? - Sir Sydney Smith - where decent wine at a good price was procured and the atmosphere enjoyed. More of this soon.

So, in summary, the much lauded Harp had the most indifferent service, but the best beer; outside known places cask is in deep decline; and even the most unlikely pubs had a decent welcome and service. Make of that snapshot what you will.

I'd observe from Brixton lager and Portobello Pilsner that the brewers really need to put a few noble hops in their beers to give them some character. Both tasted more or less of nothing, and whoever thought that heavy handled glass with a thick rim, was a good idea for Portobello Pilsner, should have a quiet word put in their ear.

I walked over 16,000 steps. Not too shabby. Oh, and price? Expect nearly a tenner for a pint and a half of anything.

10 comments:

Sam said...

Shouldve had a nightcap in https://maps.app.goo.gl/862sZgpoo5vww6SH6
I know it's not the best Soons and my missus hates it but needs are must and The Pride of Spitafields is too far away 😉

Chelsea Dogstore said...

They will be calling you an uncaring boomer you know.

These poor innkeeping children manning the frontline of the London pubs. They are serving your pint, what more do you want you entitled boomer. Hospitality?

Tandleman said...

Yes.

Professor Pie-Tin said...

16,000 pavement steps on a replacement knee ? Seriously good going old sport.
There's life in the old dog yet ...

retiredmartin said...

Excellent step count. Steps somehow seem easier in London because there's more to take your attention away from the walk.

As you rightly note, friendly service counts for a lot, and you can enjoy a pub without drinking cask.

Anonymous said...

I’d agree with your concerns around the decline in Cask especially outside of the few specialist places.

Recently did a crawl in London taking in several well-renowned places (Old Fountain, Wenlock, Sutton Arms, Craft Beer Co and Farringdon Tap) where I had generally good beer. Unfortunately ran out of ideas and had a final stop at the Blackfriar where they were serving pints of vinegary pish.

While busy, touristy, landmark pubs are unable to serve a good product, I do think Cask beer has got limited prospects.

Big Ched said...

It you going to pay London prices, you want something decent. Bog water cask, no thank you.

retiredmartin said...

If I read The Tand correctly, the cask they had was good, but often they'd switch to keg where the cask didn't look great.

I visit around 60 London pubs a year, the new GBG entries and a few oldies, and I've been impressed with conditioning (and service, to be fair) e,g, the Bear in Paddington.

But there's a lot less interest in cask in the chain entries than I ever remember, less handpumps, less unknow names. Whether you'll take better quality and less choice is a matter of personal preference !

Anonymous said...

Yes, better quality and less choice is what I’d hope for from the companies with large pub estates, so being served a pint of something “boring” but totally off (think it was Ghost Ship or OSH) from a historic Nicholsons pub is the worst case scenario and is a terrible advert for cask.

Simon Webster said...

I can't remember the last time I received FRIENDLY service in The Harp, although service is usually quick and efficient.

It gets so busy and the space for serving is so small I think the mindset these days is just to serve customers as quickly as possible. I agree a hello wouldn't be hard though.

Oh and yes, thrusting the card machine at me and not even telling me the amount? Shocking service. Happens on every visit.

They do offer a CAMRA discount though, if you show your membership card. If you're that way inclined of course.