Munich Observations Part 3

Alright folks, we’ve sorted out what to drink and the limitations of Helles, Munich’s undisputed favourite. So, what’s next? Well, the obvious question: where do you actually drink it?

Now, in some German cities it can be a bit of a hunt. In places like Augsburg or Frankfurt, decent spots are few and far between, and in others – Lubeck, Wiesbaden and plenty more – the good drinking spots feel tucked away, almost like a secret. But Munich? Totally different story. Here, beer is front and centre. You’ll find bars, pubs, beer halls and gardens pretty much wherever you turn.

On our recent trip, naturally, we tried a few old favourites, though we started in a bar near our hotel. Near the main rail station, but on the nicer Northern side of it, which is a bit of a tip too.  Here you can find decent mid-price hotels in a safe area and still walk to the main areas of Munich in 15-20 minutes.

First up has to be somewhere that sells Augustiner, and we of course plumped for the Augustiner Grossgaststätte, a traditional beer hall with a small courtyard beer garden - which I've never set foot in but have looked at - right in the middle of Munich's Marienplatz pedestrian zone. Here a first surprise. The name has changed, and it is now the Augustiner Stammhaus, but otherwise the same inside - a vast cavernous place, which when filled is very jolly and, even when not, great for people watching. So:

Beer Halls

Generally run by the big breweries in Munich and for indoor drinking and eating (though just drinking is very common.) When busy they have a unique atmosphere - noisy and boisterous - and when quiet, brilliant for people watching. Table service, which will often be surly or indifferent when busy, but try a bit of German when it is quiet and things will likely change.  There will usually be tables outside, depending on venue.  Inside you will usually find more Germans drinking, and as sharing tables is the norm, you'll usually find someone to chat to, sometimes in English, but as always a little German is appreciated. The best of them?  You can't go wrong with the Stammhaus, Augustiner Brauhaus, Löwenbräu Keller, Paulaner Brauhaus, and my own favourite, the Weisses Brauhaus,  and of course, the Hofbräuhaus.

The Hofbräuhaus needs a special mention. This vast hall on more than one level and an outside area is legendary. Yes, the Nazis held rallies there, but they did in many of Munich's beer halls - it is just that most where they did, either don't exist and more, or are no longer beer halls. Here on my last visit and every one before, beer was always only available in litres, but no doubt, moving with the times, half litres are now sold. My visit this time was a tad spoiled by chronic short measure and where I found out that the beer is automatically dispense to the servers by a machine in predetermined measures. A traditional band in Bavarian attire plays continuously in theory, churning out drinking tunes, but they often seem to prefer to just sit and chat unless, of course, you cross their palm with silver.

This is a place where gawping Japanese (and other) tourists will wander in one door and out of the other, just to see the place and take photos. They won't buy anything. Food is hearty, but slow in coming. At busy times, you'll pay up front for both food and drink. Drink the dunkel here. It is rather good and the atmosphere unique.

Bars, Pubs and Restaurants 

Of course, Munich has pubs or bars. In the suburbs they are plentiful, but even in the city centre, or just a few streets away, are decent pubs, as you'd expect mainly to serve the local population. Don't expect much difference in the beery offerings, though, as the Munich big six dominate.  A top tip though to find something more exotic is local restaurants. It is usually fine to sit outside and just have a drink, but be conscious of how busy it is if not eating. Often you'll find beers from breweries outwith Munich, but you mustn't expect too much different in terms of style. A choice of beers from Greater Bavaria, albeit helles or weissbier does make a change though, and usually the people watching is slightly different too.

In the centre you are well served by pubs from Tegernsee, Ayinger and plenty from the Big Six. Just find one you like the look of.

Beer Gardens 

Drinking in Munich in summer when the weather is fine usually attracts you to a beer garden. These are plentiful, vary from massive like the Augustiner Keller to some cosier ones such as Seehaus, by a lake in the Englischer Garten.  When it comes to beer gardens I'd really recommend that you use one or more of the many internet guides as you can then decide if it is what you have in mind.  While they are certainly variations on a theme, all have their charms whether it be atmosphere, music, clientele or whatever, but do go.

My own favourites are probably the Augustiner Keller and perhaps oddly, the Biergarten am Chinesischen Turm, which is not so touristy as you'd think and has a fab atmosphere.  Do look up beer garden etiquette before you go to avoid confusion though.  There is no fee to go in, you find your own table - sharing is the norm -  fetch your own beer having gone through the turnstiles ( unless there is a tablecloth when it is waiter service) and pay the cashier as you leave the turnstile area.  Cash is preferred, but cards are much more normal now.  Food is always available and you select your own and pay on the way out of the serving area.  You can bring your own food, but not drinks, which will be from just one brewery. And you may have to pay a deposit on your glass, which can be a bit confusing to redeem. Just watch the Germans and do what they do and you'll get the hang of it.

So there you have it.   Munich is an easy-going beer drinking city.  You will find Germans having a drink with breakfast, lunch and dinner. They will watch the world go by with a cold half litre bottle bought from a shop - that's fine if you want to. There are hidden gem beer gardens and stalls and kiosks in public parks, as well as massive beer halls and more. If the weather is fine, drink the occasion and even if the beer is a bit samey, relax and take in the scene, remembering, if you can, that the beer is just an accompaniment to your enjoyment!

One thing to note is the German people generally are very pleasant and usually happy to pass the time of day with you. A bit of  German helps, but they love to practice their English.

Munich is very walkable and flat, but public transport, while not exactly cheap, is plentiful.  

If you are wondering what to do if you are in Munich in winter or when it is pissing wet, both of which I have experienced, just hunker down inside. You'll be fine. Better than fine.  Pubs, beer halls and restaurants will be rammed and a lot of fun.