Back from a few days celebrating my birthday in Munich, I couldn’t resist jotting down a few thoughts about my favourite city — one of Europe’s great beer capitals, most at least, would say — and how it’s changed since I was last there five years ago.
First off, we struck gold with the weather. From the moment we landed until the moment we left, the sun shone gloriously. That felt like a jackpot, especially given how grim the weeks beforehand had been, as we'd noted from various weather sites before we left. As an aside, I’ve been in Munich when the Alps pull in the clouds and leave you with nothing but drizzle and grey skies that seem to sit there forever. Not this time. This time it was beer garden weather, pure and simple. What we came for.
So, what’s different since my last visit? The biggest surprise: cash is no longer king. Germany has always been the land where a pocket full of notes and coins was essential. But now? You can get by almost entirely on cards. Even Munich’s MVV transport network is on board. No more trying to work out which way to insert the euro notes. Granted, their ticket machines remain as clunky and unintuitive as ever though the newer ones aren’t quite so bad, but with patience and pressing the English translation, you'll muddle through. Not at all cheap though since they abolished the Partner Tagescarte
In pubs and restaurants, cash is still happily accepted, but plastic works just as well. The interesting development is tipping. Traditionally not much of a thing in Germany, but now you’ll often be asked — politely, even a little awkwardly — if you’d like to add one. Five to ten percent seems to be the going rate. It’s not quite expected yet, but you can sense the shift. That gentle, apologetic ask will no doubt harden into a norm before long and as for five percent, well, that will go too, but you can always decline. Or pay more.
And what about prices? They’re a mixed bag. The good news is that Augustiner, still widely considered the city’s best beer, remains among the most reasonably priced. Quality and value is always a winning combination to enhance any drinking experience. Expect to pay under €5 for Augustiner, but more in most other places.
I don't think anyone would disagree that the most commonly purchased beer in Munich is Helles, so let's go through the card. Here we are, brewery by brewery, in order of the quality of the Helles beers that I drank:
In reverse order - that is worse first:
Hacker Pschorr: Dull, sweetish with some good malt characteristics. The head disappears without a trace, and the beer itself is pretty underwhelming, leaving you with the feeling that something is missing.
Spaten: A very appealing light bronze colour and appearance, but this beer has no zing. Dryish, thin, and again head retention stinks. No real hop presence. Drink it quickly for best results.
Paulaner: Middle of the bunch. Less sweet than HP, its stable mate, but despite an appealing biscuity malt nose, it is rather thin and underwhelming.
Loewenbrau: Decent beer with a good mouthfeel, a fresh flavour and a slight hop finish. Again, drink it quickly to get the most enjoyment.
Hofbrauhaus: A step up in quality. Good biscuity malt, some peppery noble hops just about say hello. Better head retention and overall gives an impression of a well-made beer.
Ayinger: Clean, golden beer with a more steely backbone and a fuller body. Usual biscuit / bready notes to a clean, slightly herbal hop finish.
Tegernsee: Dry, clean and crisp with some bready malt. Gentle hop finish. Satisfying.
Augustiner; Fresh straw coloured beer, some hop nose and presence, good body with fresh malt notes and floral hops. Balance is much better here in this refreshing beer. One isn't enough.
Of course this is just my opinion and nearly all make a reviving drink on a hot day. Head retention was poor in most and all would benefit - at least in eye appeal - from etched glassware, but again, that's just opinion. I like a head on my beer.
I would say that Augustiner was the winner by quite a distance. There is just something about the beer that sets it apart.
Next I'll discuss pubs, beer gardens and weizenbier.
Oh and the best beer by a considerable distance was Augustiner Pils, which E drank when she could. Bottled only and a cut above Helles in my opinion. An honourable mention goes to Augustiner Edelstoff.
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