Keep the Home Fires Burning

What has Admiral Lord Nelson got to do with Rochdale? Nothing it seems, other than I suppose being a national hero a long time ago.  So the Nelson Hotel in Rochdale, we can safely assume, is not actually connected to the one armed sea dog, but his likeness adorns the pub's sign nonetheless.  Until fairly recently it seems, the pub was run for many years, until his death, by a motor bike loving landlord who loved the TT races.  I often wondered as I went by on the bus, why the pub flew the Manx flag, but now I know.  Pubs can be interesting that way.

Anyway in pursuance of my endeavour of visiting (or visiting again in some cases) every Sam Smith pub in my CAMRA Branch area, I popped in on Wednesday night.  First problem was actually getting in. The door and passageway was blocked by an old geezer on a mobility scooter of bus like dimensions.  There was a bit of a stand off as we both considered the problem. He wasn't about to move and clambering over him would have been undignified, so I grabbed his handlebars and dragged him out onto the pavement.  Well I considered it, but he (somewhat reluctantly) turned his chair a little sideways and I scrambled around him with great difficulty and entered the inner sanctum.

It turned out to be quite a nice little boozer, with the bar facing you as you come in, a room on each side, one of which was nicely appointed, with a roaring fire and two old Asian gents, each dressed in a shalwar kameez, who appeared to have come in for a warm. Drinkless, they were arguing loudly in their native language. Kind of unusual even though this is a pretty Asian dominated area.  Inside the bar was another roaring open fire. Not often you see two in such close proximity. Even more so since there was only one other old codger within, soon to be joined by the door guardian who nearly ran his pal down as he reversed up the passageway into the bar, giving his companion's table a resounding knock as he did so. A few frank words in Lancastrian were exchanged, concluding with the traditional "Fuck Off."

No real ale here, so instead the somewhat 1970s illuminated plastic boxes favoured by Sams, showed three lagers, a mild, Keg Old Brewery Bitter and a cider.  I chose Double Four, but there wasn't any, so Taddy Lager it was, pleasant enough in its own way and a mere £2.20 a pint. Very reasonable for a 4.5% beer.

As I stood at the bar I surveyed the pub and decided I liked it. It was how pubs used to be and I reckon with a few in, it would be great fun.  I remarked to the barmaid who was busy putting more fuel on the fires that I wouldn't like her coal bill. Wisely she observed that as she was only the part time barmaid, that wasn't her problem. "Fair enough" I thought as I basked in the heat, taking in some rather good old photos of Rochdale and a decent tiled image of a sailing ship in the passageway.

Before I left my Asian companions did, and as I supped up, thanked the barmaid and departed, only the two old Rochdalians remained.  I could still hear them arguing as I walked down the road to the Regal Moon and Draught Bass.

I am pretty sure there is quite a step into this pub. God knows how the guy on the scooter got in.

This review here is worth a read. 

Lots of Sam's

One of the things you can do on the background system to CAMRA's WhatPub, if you have the right permissions, is download all the data for your own CAMRA Branch area.  I gave it a go and did some number crunching, though I am fairly hobbled by being pretty unaccomplished at Excel.

Now I expected a lot of JW Lees and there is. They have a total of 86 of their pubs in our area.  What fascinated me though was the number of Sam Smith's pubs we have. No less than 30, most of which, if not all, must have been acquired by Sam's when they bought Rochdale and Manor Brewery in 1948 and closed it in 1968, though it continued to be a Sam's Depot until the seventies. (Funnily enough one of my friends from the Tavern worked at the brewery itself). I reckon we (Rochdale, Oldham and Bury Branch) must have one of  best concentrations of Sam's pubs in any CAMRA Branch area.  In fact our geographical area may well be the top one in the country, depending of course on how you choose to define such things.

Now like Mudgie I have quite a fascination for Sam's though unlike that esteemed commentator, I spend little time in them, apart from when in London and I want a cheaper pint - or just a good old fashioned boozer.  I have though met Humphrey Smith and briefly exchanged pleasantries with him - well I was pleasant and he was sarcastic - but it all counts.

Sadly though we have 30 Sam's pubs, only 4 sell real ale, which is a great pity, but the brewery is very careful about which pubs get cask. Too careful some might say and something we, CAMRA, must talk about. In fact it was querying the removal of cask from the Yew Tree that my odd encounter with Humph occurred, but I digress. It seems though to me that a bit of fun can be had by visiting the remaining Sam's pubs I haven't been to. After all they are mostly handy enough.

I'll let you know how I get on. It might take me a while though. I really don't get out enough.

I must write up my Christmas tour of a few London Sam's pubs at Christmas. I'm a bit behind on that one.

Trip Advisor has interesting reviews of the food at the Yew Tree. You can pick out Humphrey's failed centralising the food experiment easily enough. 

What Would You Choose?

As part of the year long celebration of CAMRA's Rochdale, Oldham and Bury Branch (ROB)  40th anniversary, and to add to the veritable cornucopia of fun so far, we have another three functions which hopefully will provide a bit of interest and attract members.  In conjunction with JD Wetherspoon's Area Managers and the managers of the three pubs concerned, we have agreed that ROB will choose six of the beers to be sold  in a JDW in each of the three boroughs, on three given nights.  We can choose from the entire JDW list which has over 450 breweries on it. They will even endeavour to find beers, if chosen, from outside that list.  It has to be said that JDW have been amazingly supportive of us in this endeavour.

How are we going about it? Well, at last night's Branch Meeting, we had a draw to select six winners for the Rochdale event.  The idea is that each will select three beers in a first second and third choice, the theory being at least one choice can be sourced for each person. I didn't win a chance to choose, but I do have another two goes at it. The choices were revealed and as you'd expect, at least half of them, I'd never heard of.  Given that there are so many breweries and beers that's hardly surprising to me at least, but you'd be amazed how aghast many people are when talking to me about beer, that I've never heard of a particular beer or brewery they admired while in Budley Salterton or wherever.  But I digress.

If you'd won the chance to select beers, what would have been your one, two, three?

The beers must be currently commercially brewed and be cask conditioned of course.  I doubt if my first choice, Batham's Bitter could have been sourced, but you never know.

A Few Good Beers

Like much of the population, I've got a cold. Not one of these streaming horrors, but one that just lurks there making you feel a bit off and sore throaty, but not by any means ill. However, apart from a quick trip to the quiz match, I haven't been out this week, or had a pint. A quick phone call to my mate Graham corrected this anomaly and for a change it was Rochdale, not the Northern Quarter, that was our destination.

The Baum has only been a pub for 30 years and is flourishing. It sells a varied range of beers and importantly, it keeps them well, so we entered with eager anticipation. Phoenix was on the bar, so all was well. Here's a thing for you to know. It doesn't actually matter that much which Phoenix is available. Like potatoes, in the McCains's ad, they're all good. This particular Phoenix was Pale Moonlight and I'm guessing you know already that it is pale and hoppy, but in this case with a very firm malt base which holds the whole thing together very nicely indeed. Simon the owner proffered an ominous word of caution though. "I think it's near the end." Damn. Before we finished our perfect pints, another couple of pints pulled for others saw it off. So what next? Dark Star Espresso Stout of course. This was a rare chance to have this fabulous beer served through a tight sparkler, emphasising the coffee and coal dust notes. Lovely stuff.

In the Regal Moon (voted on Sunday as Wetherspoon Cask Ale Pub of the Year) the line up was mouth watering for a man in severe need of refreshment. More Phoenix on the bar included the strong Wobbly Bob and despite the temptation of Elland, Milestone and others, Phoenix it had to be; this time in the tantalising shape of Flash Flood. It didn't disappoint, with a very hoppy finish to a very enjoyable beer. However man does not live by Phoenix alone, though of course he could, beer wise at least, so good is the range. Next up for the full pint treatment, after some tastings, was Adnams Yuletide, with spiciness throughout, which suits the distinctive Adnams yeast so well. This divided opinions though, with Graham and Steve the cellarman being unconvinced. Trust me on this one, it is good. Having seen that off down red lane, one more had to be sampled before the 17 bus and so it came to pass, that for the first time in two years (it wasn't brewed last year), I had a Lees Plum Pudding. This dry, fruity, bittersweet beer is one you either like or don't. I do and the good news is that it will be on in my local soon. Seek it out on the guest trail and do ask for it to be sparkled.

So there we have it. An ordinary drinking session in Rochdale and some tip top beers and tip top tips. Drink any of them. You won't be disappointed.

A Couple of New Beers

We had a CAMRA meeting last night and it gave me the opportunity to try two beers I've never had. First was Saltaire Republika, a strawberry infused blonde beer which was surprisingly good, with a whiff of fresh strawberry on the nose and a good bitter finish with strawberry again evident. Interesting and different, but I dare say it will appeal to some more than others.

More promising, as they always are, was a new beer from Mallinson's of Huddersfield. St George's Square is pale, full bodied, spicy, with a long bitter finish. It was really excellent and was my beer of choice for the rest of the evening. The Baum, our hosts and our current Pub of the Year lived up to its reputation. The beer was on top form and as a bonus, though some won't approve no doubt, they offer 40p off a pint to CAMRA members.

Both Saltaire and Mallinson's are tremendous breweries. Seek them out.

Out and About

My mate Graham suggests a few pints later - we haven't been out for a while with one thing and another. Shall we meet in Manchester and do the usual rounds?  Boring old places like Micro Bar, The Angel, The Marble Arch and maybe even nip over to the other side of town for a change, to Knott Bar, The Lass o' Gowrie or Kro Bar?  No. We're off to sample the beery delights of Rochdale. It's good enough to compete in so many ways, with quality beer and pubs abounding.  And it'll make a change.

That's the thing about living in a relative beer nirvana. You are spoilt for choice.

Graham with his Mum amd Dad in a famous German pub.

Phoenix Arizona

My cultural day on Saturday did eventually turn into a bit of a booze up, but not before admiring the various attractions of Rochdale Parish Church, with its defaced (literally) figures, vandalised by scandalised Cromwellians as "false idols" during the English Civil War and of course the extract from the parish register of the birth of one Gracie Fields.

The Pioneers Museum was a touching and humbling tribute to the far sightedness of the founders of the Co-op movement who were appalled by the way the poor were cheated by suppliers of adulterated and short measure food and were determined to do something about it. The displays were interesting and the young curator informative. I made a mental note to do more of my shopping in the Co-op from now on, remembering as a child, going to buy things for my Mum and always of course, quoting our "divvy" number. Anyone of my generation will remember theirs as I do ours I'll bet.

But man does not live by culture (or indeed nostalgia) alone, so we slipped next door into the Baum, the only other building still standing on Toad Lane. There are now six handpumps, but my eye was immediately caught by Phoenix Arizona, particularly as Simon the owner mentioned it was a new cask. This pale, straw coloured beer was clear as a bell and was cask ale on top form. We all savoured its divine bitter hoppiness and full malt base. So much so that we stuck with it for the next couple of hours, before a quick visit to the Regal Moon where a number of top form hoppy Elland Brewery beers sent us home rejoicing.

There are those who are calling for pale "summer" beers to be replaced as autumn approaches with mellower, fruitier beers. Replace Phoenix and Elland? Ignore such siren calls. Beers like these are always in demand.

The photo is the beer garden in the Baum. Not bad eh?

Cultural(e)

This weekend and next sees buildings that are not normally open or fully open to the public being available for visiting. My chums at the THT are a cultural lot who also like a bevvy. A good mix. So today we are touring the 800 year old Rochdale Parish Church and then the Pioneers Museum, which commemorates the birth of the Co-operative movement in Rochdale in 1844.

Now the Co-op Museum just happens to be next door to the splendid Baum, my CAMRA Branch's Pub of The Year, so we'll be in to check quality.

It's a gorgeous day here and there is a beer garden. Sounds like a good day out to me.

Next week we are all off to London for a few days. Pub suggestions welcome. They've already sorted out culture.

Beer of the Week - So Far

I see others have noted that JDW has ended its 99p promotion. I noticed this yesterday when on a brief two pub crawl of Rochdale. For once my visit to the Baum proved disappointing. Three beers on offer here. One was a honey beer from someone or other. It wouldn't do. I wanted something pale and hoppy for my first drink. Flowers IPA (didn't know it was still listed) was the other choice, before settling on my chosen beer, Hoppy Blonde from Williams Bros of Alloa. Did it do what it said on the tin? Alas no. It was pale, thin and weedy with a slight phenolic finish. I made my excuses and left. Even the best pubs, and the Baum is one, have a day when the beer doesn't suit you.

The Regal Moon is a large art-deco former cinema owned by JD Wetherspoon, is a GBG entry and is usually good for choice. Today was no exception. In addition to Triple F Alton's Pride, current Champion Beer of Britain, the superb Phoenix White Tornado, beers from Allgates (hmm) a special from the dependable Elland was available, as well as more standard offerings.

Bearing in mind the recent criticism of JDW on some blogs, I looked carefully around this large pub and did observe one small group of ne'er do wells. About five in number, they sat and chatted and if they smelled, it didn't reach me at the bar. Shoppers popped in and out, young couples, whispered in corners, two old dears nattered over their late afternoon meals and the only thing in the air was the buzz of conversation. There was a distinct lack of comatose bodies on the floor and no aggression or scrapping going on. No-one seemed to be getting tanked up before going on elsewhere. OK it wasn't Friday night - but let's face it, it seldom is! It was disappointingly normal.

Back to beer. Phoenix White Tornado was dependably good, Allgates Groundhop Day was ordinary, as their beers increasingly tend to be these days. There is often a strange chemical finish in them which I just don't like. I had to try the Alton's Pride. It was in excellent condition, an old fashioned full bodied brown beer, with a strong malt base and a good hop finish. A very good beer, but champion? Must have been great on the day I suppose.

Last up for me was the oddly named Elland Drakens Eld. This is a pale, ginger beer with a full body and a very strongly bitter finish, with a distinct ginger bite. It might not be to everyone's taste, but it was a very interesting and enjoyable beer to finish on and my beer of the week so far. But of course Easter weekend beckons.

More Good Beer in Rochdale

The Good Beer Guide Selection Meeting went well. It had a very good number of attendees, debate was sensible and considered and we came up with an excellent set of pubs to survey.

The Baum, our hosts also excelled. I started off with Nottingham Pale Ale, a pale, hoppy little 3.8% number. I knew this wouldn't last. Despite other excellent beers including a new "Ticker's Beer" from Phoenix, word of its quality spread and all too soon we had drunk them dry of it. Replacements included a superbly hoppy and bitter Marble Pint - served in much better condition than the Marble Arch sometimes manages and a wonderful example of Phoenix West Coast IPA which was resinously hoppy and moreish, despite its 4.6%. The Regal Moon offered us Elland Savannah among a pretty good selection, while a boisterous (United were live on Sky) Flying Horse gave us a slightly off the mark Phoenix Arizona (unusual) and some very acceptable Moorhouses Blonde Witch.

I've said it before, but Rochdale rocks at the moment beer wise. All we needed was some Pictish, though I did have a pint of Pictish Liberty in the Marble Arch on Friday, which was frankly, disappointing, lacking the smack of Liberty hops I'd expected. Still you can't win 'em all can you?

Yes all the beers I drank were pale and hoppy!

Up and Coming

When you think of the great destination beer towns in this country your mind probably starts to list them roughly as follows: Sheffield, Huddersfield, Manchester, Liverpool, Chester, Leeds, Derby etc. etc. I suppose to some extent the list you come up with will be influenced by a number of factors including where you live, how often you get out and about, what you drink and whether you are a ticker or not. Either way, you will have certain places that you will regard as worth going to, whatever your beery predilections. Almost certainly you won't include Rochdale. This may be about to change.

Historically a part of Lancashire, Rochdale's recorded history begins with an entry in the Domesday Book of 1086. Today it is a large market town of 95,000 people about 10 miles from Manchester, with some nice buildings and the usual concrete monstrosities of shopping centres somewhat dominating. It is the birthplace of the Co-op. What it also has is quite a few free houses and these are starting to wake up to the potential of cask ale. Currently in the centre there are around five decent free houses within a fifteen minute walk of each other. I don't know about you, but to me, that is a decent little crawl.

You could do worse than start as I did at the Cask and Feather. This used to be the home of Thomas McGuinness Brewing, which lasted quite a few years, producing rather bland beers until a fire stopped all that. The pub is nothing special, but two beers from Phoenix were tried and were in excellent condition. Navvy was clean with a very bitter resinous finish. Snowbound was fuller in the body with a good hop finish and made a good start to my crawl. I didn't try Thwaites Lancaster Bomber. So three ever changing beers here.

A ten minute walk takes you to the Baum in the conservation area. This is a smashing place. With wooden boards, old enamel adverts, a mature clientèle, tapas and full meals available, a good selection of foreign beers and up to five ever changing guest beers, what's not to like? It is one of the few places I know where the staff are as good as the Angel in Manchester. Lately they have upped their beer game here and yesterday was no exception. Dark was the theme and the sheer good condition of the beers reminded me what a pleasure it is to drink top quality milds and porters. Additionally you get 40p off a pint on production of a CAMRA membership card! First up was Rochdale's own Green Mill Brewery. The beer was Dark Side and at 3.9% it was tasty and moreish. I followed this up with the excellent 3B's Knocker Up, a 4.8% traditional porter which was soothing, full bodied with a long smooth, malty finish. Then by contrast Phoenix Porter at 5%. A real treat this, with a full malty body and enough hop to lift it beyond the Knocker up for this writer. The finish was resinous, but just malty enough to keep it out of the stout category. A classic. My last beer wasn't so successful. Hornbeam Blackcurrant Wheat, was astringent, thin and had a weedy finish, where you could just about detect blackcurrant. Not great in my view, but the barmaid professed to quite liking it, though she also admitted it had had a mixed reception. I didn't try the Moorhouses Premier.

Next up was the GBG listed Regal Moon (JDW) which is newly managed by a regular at our pub, He used to manage the JDW in Huddersfield and intends to build up the cask side of things. I stuck to two superb beers, both from Elland Brewery. Savannah was 3.8%, pale, hoppy and very drinkable, while the 4.2% Eden was stunningly good, with Chinook hops providing bitterness and Cascade a resiny fruity finish. What a good beer. Greene King IPA was on at 99p, but only two pints were sold when I was there. There are usually seven or eight beers here and most aren't the usual JDW suspects, though there is no choice but to sell IPA. However it seems if that is not available, an alternative 99p beer will be offered.

My last call was the Flying Horse a mere two minutes away. There I could have chosen Green Mill, Moorhouses, Landlord, Lees or Phoenix. Naturally I went for Phoenix, this time, Thirsty Moon which was clean, bitter, aromatic and downright tasty.

So there you have it. I didn't get round to the Merrie Monk which has Hydes and a guest, but around 20 different beers, all good quality in a short, tight little crawl. Rochdale is coming up beer wise. Keep your eye on it.